Vintage 1955 Airstream Safari 22'
This is a 1955 Airstream Safari - the original Safari; Airstream subsequently called any single axle trailer by that name. It was manufactured in Jackson, OH (see nameplate photo) and was the 94th Safari to roll off the new line. I started a shell-off restoration last summer: Chassis repaired and repainted.New belly skin (032" 5052 aluminum.)New hubs, and bearings, electric brakes, wheels, tires.New 12V and 120V wiring. I've seen posts about installing an A/C under the dinette seat, so I included an outlet where that could go. I brought 12V wiring up to the ceiling vents, so you could replace them with Fantastic Fans. New 30A Power Center/battery charger. Outer shell has had two rounds of polishing. The front roof vent is new. I have reinstalled the original interior fixtures, though the woodwork on the closet doors is showing its 64 years. Furnishings and curtains shown in the photos are included. The aluminum top cabinets are in good shape, stripped of paint and polished. I have lots of other restoration and pre-restoration photos. Please ask if you want more information. If you want to view the vehicle, send me a message. I am available this weekend and most days. Title: In New Jersey you can't get a title for a trailer under 2,500lbs. So it will be sold with the following, as detailed on the NJ MVC site. A pencil tracing of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), along with a notarized statement that includes: year manufactured; make; VIN; and price of purchase. The current registration card which shows the trailer is registered and owned by me. Please check with your DMV/MVC or contact me for more information if you are unsure about registration in your state. I will provide any documentation you need. Insulation: I used 2 layers of R- 21 unfaced reflective foil insulation in place of the original fiberglass in the walls, and a single layer under the decking. Airstream originally used a thin layer of fiberglass under the deck. Wiring: I ran separate 120V circuits right and left, 3 outlets on each, and a separate circuit to where the left rear dinette seat goes. As mentioned previously, I've seen folks add an a/c unit under there. 12V runs to touch control puck lights by beds, inside the roof to the cabin light, and another puck light in the bathroom. There are separate unused circuits along the roof which can be accessed at each vent. They could be used for fans or additional lights. Power center is by WFCO, model WF8735P, so you can look it up. I just installed a new Group 24 Deep Cycle battery in a tray in the trunk. It provides power for the break-away brake switch, and backup for the 12V circuits. It is charged when you are on external power, or when connected to a tow vehicle. Plumbing: The original (tiny) black tank was missing as the trailer had been converted for external plumbing. I installed a Nature’s Head composting toilet. It has an electric fan, connected to the 12V supply, that vents the unit to the roof. These are used on boats, work really well and are almost $1,000 new. It works very well. I have added a 6 gallon grey tank under the kitchen sink, connected through the floor to a gate valve and sewer piping valve for emptying, or hookup at a campsite. I’m including a sump-pump drain hose that will screw on to the 1 ½” sewer outlet. There is a hand-pump faucet on the sink, which I installed when we used to travel in this. It stopped pumping, but I’ll check and see it can be repaired. We used to fill a water container and put that under the sink to feed the pump. *** The hand pump works - the non-return valve in the base had stuck. I removed the pipe and gently pushed the valve open with a blunt screwdriver. I have added a photo of it operating. Propane: Is connected to the stove and original Panelray heater. It is not connected to the gas lamp. It will work if you hook it up. Awning: I do have what is probably the original awning. It attaches by sliding into the slot along the roof, and is held up with poles. I don’t have the poles and we never used it, but I’ll leave it in the trunk. Frame repairs: I had to replace 3 or 4 of the outrigger sections, the cross-brace just in front of the bumper, and the small outriggers at the front. The main spars were good except 1 point that was cracked about half way around. I cut out and replaced the cracked piece, and welded a fishplate over the whole section. Apart from that it was minor, largely cosmetic, replacements on rusted-through spots. I used Corroseal as a rust converter/primer and painted with Rustoleum. Flooring is 23/32 CAT PS1-09 ply with checkerboard sheet vinyl over a laminate floor underlayment for extra cushioning.